Thailand: Koh Mak and Koh Kood
Thailand has it all: vibrant cities, jungles and idyllic islands. While many of the islands are now packed with tourists, I discovered two gems that still offer laid-back vibes, pristine beaches and great food. Welcome to Koh Mak and Koh Kood.
Koh Mak and Koh Kood are just a few hours east of Bangkok, near the Cambodian border. Getting there is simple. I booked my entire journey — including both bus and ferry — through the 12Go app, which is a great tool for efficient travel around Thailand and the rest of Asia. I highly recommend downloading it.
Buses to the islands depart from Khao San Road in Bangkok (though aside from catching your bus, I’d avoid that area altogether). If you depart at 8:00 AM, you’ll arrive on Koh Mak around 3:45 PM.
Koh Mak
Koh Mak is a relatively small island, covering just 16 square kilometers, making it incredibly easy to explore. The best way to get around is by renting a scooter—traffic is minimal, and the roads are generally safe.
Accommodation is available all around the island. I stayed at SeaBreeze Koh Mak, which offers spacious and comfortable bungalows set on a hillside, most with stunning sea views. While there’s no direct beach access, the property features a large swimming pool. The service is relaxed and friendly, reflecting the warm Thai hospitality.
Breakfast is included in the price and, although simple, it’s fresh and full of flavor—think eggs, pancakes, and seasonal fruit.
At the SeaBreeze poolside
For a good of coffee, head to Mr. Non Coffee. The friendly owner serves a wide variety, from rich espressos to refreshing iced lattes. Before grabbing your coffee, stop by Koh Mak Homemade Bakes just nearby—they offer the freshest bread and croissants. Even in Thailand, it’s a treat to enjoy a warm, flaky croissant!
Mr Non himself
For lunch, don’t miss Rabbit Bar & Restaurant. The wonderfully welcoming owner makes delicious fruit smoothies from a wide selection of fresh ingredients. Their Pad Thai is so good, you’ll likely find yourself coming back the next day.
The cheerful owner of the Rabbit Bar & Restaurant
Just behind the buildings opposite Rabbit Bar, you’ll discover the laid-back Ao Baan Yai Beach—perfect for sipping cocktails as you watch the sun set over the water.
Sunset at Ao Baan Yai
If you’re a seafood lover, a visit to Koh Mak Seafood Restaurant is a must. Set right on a jetty with tables scattered above the water, it offers some of the freshest fish and seafood on the island. While it’s a bit pricier than other local spots, it’s still very affordable compared to European prices. Bonus tip: if the island’s only ATM is out of service, you can also withdraw cash here for a small additional fee.
Koh Kood
Koh Kood is just a half-hour ferry ride from Koh Mak. At 162 square kilometers, it’s significantly larger—though still relatively small—than Koh Mak. Despite having a good number of accommodations across various categories, the island retains a peaceful, uncrowded atmosphere (for now).
The island is home to countless stunning sandy beaches, many of which are best explored by scooter. The roads are quiet, making it easy and safe to get around.
I stayed at the delightful The Beach, Natural Resort—a charming three-star hotel that easily deserves a fourth. Set on a beautiful white-sand beach, the resort offers spacious rooms, friendly staff, and a relaxed vibe. It’s the perfect spot to unwind for a few days: sunbathing, swimming, sipping cocktails, and enjoying the delicious food.
Dinner at sunset
Beach Natural Resort
Another beach not to miss is Ao Phrao Beach, a long stretch of powdery white sand ideal for leisurely walks and refreshing dips in crystal-clear waters.
Ao Phrao Beach
Need a haircut while you're there? I did—and I highly recommend FadPee Barber. Professional, efficient, and delivered with a warm Thai smile.
Fad Pee Barber